Christopher Nisperos

 "Making of" photos:
 Florian Kleinefenn

 

... continued
 

THE SHOOT

I cleaned and loaded several film holders with Ilford HP5+  8x10 sheet film. My exposure index for this film was the nominal 400 ISO. I have used this film for many years and find it very good for this kind of portraiture (I also use it for natural light portraiture). For loading, I use an extra-large film tent of my own design. My lighting ratio having been previously established, I can now meter for the exposure. I prefer incident readings for this type of portraiture.  

The 'bigness' of the Copal 3 shutter on my Schneider lens aids me in finding the controls faster. This is important when you're trying to deal with all the steps of making a photo with a view camera all while trying to keep the subject at ease! Once my lens is open, I want to compose without hassle, and in order to move around my fifteen pound, one-yard long camera while it sits on a tripod or camera stand, nothing beats a gearhead (in the old days, they called it a crankhead). The gearhead lets me tilt forward, backward, and side-to-side, and I highly recommend using one.   

After giving the model a "rough pose",  I open my Schneider lens, go to the back of the camera, throw a focus cloth over my head and 'watch TV', as I call it. The f/8.4 opening of the 480mm gives plenty enough light for me to step back from the ground glass a bit and compose comfortably, and, of course, focus! So far, I haven't yet found the need to buy a brighter ground glass (but with age, this will surely change!).  

After composing, refining the pose and focusing --and asking the subject to hold the pose--  I close the aperture and make my lens settings.  Now it's time to insert your film holder, pull the dark slide and wait a moment for all vibrations to dissipate. At this point IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO PROTECT THE LENS FROM FLARE FROM THE SURROUNDING SPOTLIGHTS. To obtain the best performance from your Iens, I highly recommend the use of a good lens shade or compendium.   
 

RESULT

   ( pdf: 1 MB )
 

For making the portrait, I stand at the front of the camera --near the lens-to-subject axis--, and direct or coax the desired expression from my subject and depress the cable release at the right moment. Sometimes, due to the long pose, the subject's eyes will widen, as they can move nothing else to show emotion. When I catch this, I ask the subject to close their eyes for a moment before I shoot, and re-open them. My exposures normally run from 1/2 second to several seconds.     

1 | 2 | 3 | 4